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Legend has it that the famous French fashion designer Coco Chanel made tanning popular — completely by mistake. In the early 1920s, Chanel got a sunburn while spending time in the French Riviera. Her sunburn faded into a tan and Chanel’s new "look" became all the rage. This is how tanned skin became linked with a life of wealth, leisure, and travel.
While tanning remains popular today, we now know it comes with certain health risks. Spending time out in the sun puts you at risk for developing sunburns, skin damage, premature aging, and skin cancer.
That said, you can still get a tan with minimal sun time. There are many sunless tanning options to consider — some good, some bad. So, we asked our chief of dermatology for Kaiser Permanente in sunny San Diego, Jeff Benabio, MD, MBA, which tanning options are safe and which ones to avoid. Here’s what he had to say.
Avoid: Tanning beds and booths
"Using tanning beds significantly increases your risk of skin cancer," says Dr. Benabio. "I urge everyone to avoid them."
Many studies have shown the dangers of using tanning beds and booths. The Skin Cancer Foundation reports:1
- Nearly 420,000 cases of skin cancer in the U.S. each year may be linked to indoor tanning.
- If you’re using a tanning bed before age 35, you can increase your risk of melanoma by 75%.
- Those who have tanned indoors have an increased risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by 83% and basal cell carcinoma by 29%.
Avoid: Sunless tanning pills and accelerators
Tanning pills are taken orally and spread color additives throughout your body — especially the skin. According to the American Cancer Society, "The main ingredient in most sunless tanning pills can show up in your eyes as yellow crystals, which may cause injury and impair vision. There have also been reports of liver and skin problems."
As for tanning accelerators, they can be found in both pill and lotion form. They are said to stimulate your body’s tanning process. However, there’s no evidence that they work — and they may even be dangerous.2
"Two ingredients found in sunless tanning products less frequently are the color additive canthaxanthin, which is used in sunless tanning pills, and the amino acid tyrosine, which is used in tanning accelerators," Dr. Benabio explains. "These ingredients have not been approved by the FDA as tanning agents and should be avoided."
Try: FDA-approved sunless tanning lotions and creams
If you’re looking to get a summer glow, try sunless tanning lotions and creams that contain ingredients approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
"These options are safe and harmless," says Dr. Benabio. "I often hear from patients who are fair-skinned that they want a little more color. I tell them that using sunless tanning products can help them get a tan without spending time in the sun. This limits their exposure to harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which accelerates the skin’s aging process and increases the risk for skin cancer."
Unlike self-tanning accelerator lotions that use tyrosine, FDA-approved sunless lotions and creams use an active ingredient called dihydroxyacetone (DHA). "DHA works by reacting with dead cells on the skin’s surface to temporarily darken the skin. But keep in mind that DHA is only approved for external use, so avoid getting the product in your eyes, ears, or mouth."
Try: Airbrush tans or tanning sprays
You may also want to think about professional airbrush tanning or tanning sprays. Like the lotions and creams, these products work by temporarily darkening your skin to make you look suntanned. However, when using these products, try to not inhale the mist or spray.
A word of caution
If you do decide to use a safe self-tanning lotion, cream, or spray, remember these products may or may not provide protection from the sun.3 Here’s what Dr. Benabio recommends for protection:
- Avoid the sun when possible — especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
- Try to stay in the shade if you need to be outside.
- Wear protective gear like a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and clothing that covers your arms and legs.
- Apply sunscreen with a sun protection factor (SPF) of at least 30 and reapply it every 2 hours.
Learn more about sun safety.
Bottom line: If you want a tan, you can avoid putting your health at risk by using an FDA-approved sunless tanning lotion, spray, or cream. Whichever product you decide to use, be sure to use it as directed. And you’ll also need to continue wearing proper sun protection when spending time outside.