Legend has it that the famous French fashion designer Coco Chanel helped make tanning popular — completely by mistake. In the early 1920s, Chanel got a sunburn while spending time in the French Riviera. Her sunburn faded into a tan and her new "look" became all the rage. That's how tanned skin became linked with a life of wealth, leisure, and travel.
While tanning is still popular today, we now know it comes with a risk for developing sunburns, skin damage — including premature aging, wrinkles, and dark spots — and skin cancer.
The good news is you can still get a tan without spending hours in the sun. There are many sunless tanning options to choose from, and each one has different safety concerns. We asked Jeff Benabio, MD, MBA, chief of dermatology for Kaiser Permanente in San Diego, which options are safer and which ones to avoid.
Avoid: Tanning beds and booths
Using tanning beds significantly increases your risk of skin cancer, says Dr. Benabio. I urge everyone to avoid them.
Indoor tanning exposes your skin to concentrated ultraviolet (UV) rays. This can lead to sunburns, skin damage, premature aging, and skin cancer — sometimes years later. The Skin Cancer Foundation reports that using tanning beds before age 35 can increase your risk of melanoma by up to 75%.¹ Indoor tanning has also been linked with higher rates of basal cell and squamous cell carcinoma.
Avoid: Sunless tanning pills and accelerators
Tanning accelerators can be found in both pill and lotion form. The pills spread color additives throughout your body — especially the skin and eyes. According to the American Cancer Society. "The main ingredient in most sunless tanning pills can show up in your eyes as yellow crystals, which may cause injury and impair vision. There have also been reports of liver and skin problems."
Tanning accelerators claim to stimulate your body’s tanning process. However, there’s no good evidence that they work — and they may even be dangerous.2
"Two ingredients found in sunless tanning products less frequently are the color additive canthaxanthin, which is used in sunless tanning pills, and the amino acid tyrosine, which is used in tanning accelerators," Dr. Benabio explains. "These ingredients have not been approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as tanning agents and should be avoided."
Are self-tanners safe?
Most self-tanners — like lotions, creams, and sprays you apply to your skin — are considered safer than UV tanning when used as directed.
Self-tanners work by temporarily darkening the outer layer of your skin. The color fades after a few days as your skin naturally sheds. For most people, self-tanners are a way to get a tanned look without exposing the skin to harmful UV rays.
But is self-tanner bad for you? For most people, these products are considered safe. That said, people with sensitive skin may notice minor reactions or irritation. If you have very sensitive skin, eczema, or other skin conditions, talk with your doctor before trying a new product. They can help you decide if a referral to a dermatologist is needed.
Are there carcinogens in self-tanners?
The biggest cancer risk from tanning comes from UV exposure, not from sunless tanning products. If you’re concerned about specific ingredients, look for products with shorter ingredient lists, choose fragrance-free options, and talk with your doctor or dermatologist.
Try: Sunless tanning lotions and creams
People often wonder whether tanning lotion is bad for your skin. Usually, the answer is no — as long as you’re using a self-tanning lotion that’s made with ingredients approved by the FDA.
"These options are safe and harmless," says Dr. Benabio. "I often hear from patients who are fair-skinned that they want a little more color. I tell them that using sunless tanning products can help them get a tan without spending time in the sun. This limits their exposure to harmful UV radiation, which accelerates the skin’s aging process and increases the risk for skin cancer."
Try: Airbrush tans or tanning sprays
You may also want to think about professional airbrush tanning or tanning sprays. Like lotions and creams, these products temporarily darken your skin to make it look suntanned.
A frequent question is whether a spray tan is bad for your skin. While spray tans are generally considered safe for most people, the main concern is breathing in the spray mist.
Because they usually contain an active ingredient called dihydroxyacetone (DHA) — which is only approved for external use — you should:
- Avoid inhaling the mist
- Close your eyes and mouth during application
- Use nose plugs or eye protection when they’re offered
- Choose a salon that’s well ventilated
If you have asthma or breathing problems, talk with your doctor before getting a spray tan.
Important precautions
If you use a self-tanning lotion, cream, or spray, remember that these products don’t provide meaningful sun protection.3 Even though some sunless tanners may offer a small amount of SPF for a short time, it’s not enough to protect your skin. You still need sunscreen and other sun-safe habits.
Here’s what Dr. Benabio recommends for protection:
- Avoid the sun when possible — especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
- Stay in the shade when you can.
- Wear a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and clothing that covers your arms and legs.
- Apply sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 and reapply every 2 hours.
Learn more about sun safety.
Bottom line: If you want a tan, you can lower your health risks by choosing an FDA-approved sunless tanning lotion, cream, or spray. Whichever product you decide to use, be sure to follow the directions, avoid unapproved tanning pills or accelerators, and continue to protect your skin from the sun when you’re outside.